Two-way blocking true union valve--seals in both directions. Unique double union / double block design permits in-line maintenance without disconnecting pipe. The term true union means that the carrier or main part of the valve can be removed from the piping system and be either repaired or replaced. All plastic construction. Ball valve has dual o-ring stem design. May be installed on Sch. 40 or 80 PVC pipe. They will never rust or corrode. Perfect for controlling pump flows into weirs and fountains or reducing flow to achieve a specific cascade flow.

Includes both slip and threaded connectors.

Thread Sealants: Teflon Tape or Paste?
Teflon tape is a quick and clean way to seal threads in most applications. When applying Teflon tape, care must be taken to apply the tape correctly or leaking may still occur. You should wrap the thread 2-3 times around the threads in a counter-clockwise direction so that the tape doesn't bunch up when it is screwed into the pipe. Do not over tighten, as this may cause the tape to become thin or break in spots, while under tightening may allow water through.

For professional, long-term or industrial applications, Teflon paste, although messy and more difficult to apply, will provide a more reliable seal that won't leak if the plastic pipe distorts over time. Teflon paste should be applied to both the male and female threads.

Gluing PVC Pipe
All the joints in PVC piping whether it's used for irrigation, drains and vents in house plumbing or as a part of a central vacuum system, are literally welded together with a chemical solvent. The solvent cement, applied to both of the pieces being joined, temporarily melts a thin layer of PVC, which re-solidifies in the seconds after the pieces are put together and forms a seamless, waterproof, airtight seal. The process is simple but unforgiving of error - once the weld sets, the only way to change it is to cut it off. Here's how to keep mistakes to a minimum.

1. Measure and cut: Measure the distance between the shoulders on the fittings at each end of the pipe to ensure that the pipe will be fully seated in its fittings. Transfer that measurement to the pipe and make a straight cut with a hacksaw. Scrape the inside of the cut smooth with a utility knife.

2. Prime: Spread cement primer over the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting where they'll overlap. The primer softens and cleans the plastic.

3. Dry fit: Assemble everything to make sure the pipe is the correct length. On fittings such as elbows, position is critical, so make a reference mark from the pipe onto the fitting.

4. Glue: Apply the cement to the primed areas on the inside of the fitting and to the outside of the pipe.

5. Push and twist: Slide the pipe into the fitting until it bottoms out against the fitting's shoulder, then give it a 1/4 inch turn to spread the glue and speed its cure. If you're attaching a fitting, push it in with the reference marks slightly out of register, and turn the fitting to align the marks. Hold for 30 seconds, then wipe up any excess cement with a dry rag.